Ice Stories: Dispatches From Polar Scientists » Scott Base http://icestories.exploratorium.edu/dispatches Mon, 15 Nov 2010 20:40:36 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.9.2 en hourly 1 Pressure Ridges http://icestories.exploratorium.edu/dispatches/pressure-ridges-2/ http://icestories.exploratorium.edu/dispatches/pressure-ridges-2/#comments Fri, 08 Jan 2010 00:24:48 +0000 Mark Krasberg http://icestories.exploratorium.edu/dispatches/?p=2090 MCMURDO STATION, ANTARCTICA– Today I visited the (New Zealand) Scott Base. The New Zealand base is next to some spectacular pressure ridges, which are caused by tides where the sea ice meets the land – the ice literally buckles and rises upwards. While I was there I was invited to walk around this spectacular sight. (You have to be invited by a member of the New Zealand base.)


Members of the New Zealand base use flags to map out a safe route. The ice was starting to get soft and they were about to close down trips, but luckily the paths were still open.

Where the sea ice meets the land, the ice buckles and rises upwards under tidal forces, forming these pressure ridges.

Pressure ridges with Mount Erebus in the background.

Another view of the pressure ridges.

During the trip we encountered a Weddell seal lying close to the path. It was cute.

That’s me posing with the Weddell seal.

In the background, you can see a new feature on the Antarctic landscape: Scott Base has built three windmills for power.
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The Power of the Wind and Tides http://icestories.exploratorium.edu/dispatches/the-power-of-the-wind-and-tides/ http://icestories.exploratorium.edu/dispatches/the-power-of-the-wind-and-tides/#comments Thu, 26 Nov 2009 03:09:56 +0000 Heidi Roop http://icestories.exploratorium.edu/dispatches/?p=1992 MCMURDO STATION, ANTARCTICA– We have been here a week now and the cargo is packed and loaded. Several planes have been able to get cargo out to WAIS and now all of the science crew and drillers need to get out to camp! Things are finally starting to look up. In the meantime, we have been having a grand time exploring the hiking trails, coffee house and entertainment that McMurdo has to offer (think craft room, gym, exercise classes, movie nights etc.)! Many of us are trying to stay healthy by going on runs, skiing, and hiking. We have had great weather (~15-20 °F) with sunny skies so that certainly provides the motivation to get out and have fun while we wait to get out to WAIS Divide. One of our adventures was over to the pressure ridges near Scott Base, the home of the Antarctica New Zealand program.

This short video sums up pressure ridges. The pressure ridges we explored here form where a large mass of sea ice buckles under pressure as it makes contact with land (in this case, Ross Island where McMurdo Station and Scott Base are located). The wind, tides, and sun are all variables that constantly change these ridges. With Mt. Erebus looming over the station, the views were quite dramatic. Surprisingly, every view along our ~2 mile walk seemed different! It was like walking through a park of ice sculptures! Like identifying shapes in clouds, we were able to see a dog, person, peace sign, and set of waves. I hope you enjoy this short video with photos from this little adventure onto the ice!

Music by Wayne Grim.



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Pressure Ridges http://icestories.exploratorium.edu/dispatches/pressure-ridges/ http://icestories.exploratorium.edu/dispatches/pressure-ridges/#comments Mon, 12 Jan 2009 22:16:09 +0000 Mark Krasberg http://icestories.exploratorium.edu/dispatches/?p=1490 SOUTH POLE STATION, ANTARCTICA– Before I left McMurdo, I got a tour of the pressure ridges near Scott Base (the New Zealand station very close to McMurdo). The pressure ridges are formed by tidal forces — there is a thick sheet of sea ice which meets the land, and tidal forces cause the ice to buckle. Members of the New Zealand base use flags to map out a safe route, and we were allowed to walk around these marvelous ice formations one evening. Our guide was Peggy Malloy. The trip was a lot of fun!


Aerial view of McMurdo Station (US – brown buildings) and Scott Base (NZ – green buildings).

View of Scott Base from the pressure ridges.

Pressure ridges.

Flags to map out a safe route through the pressure ridges.

Another photo of these marvelous ice formations.

Me and my guide, Peggy Malloy.
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Made it to Antarctica http://icestories.exploratorium.edu/dispatches/made-it-to-antarctica/ http://icestories.exploratorium.edu/dispatches/made-it-to-antarctica/#comments Fri, 26 Dec 2008 22:04:01 +0000 Mark Krasberg http://icestories.exploratorium.edu/dispatches/?p=1401 SOUTH POLE STATION, ANTARCTICA– En route to Antarctica, I spent three days in Christchurch. The weather was nice – a few of the IceCubers played croquet next to the Botanical gardens.


The Christchurch Botanic Gardens, New Zealand.

The Croquet Club, Christchurch.

On Dec 9 we were scheduled to take a South African Hercules to McMurdo but ended up flying on the massive C17 “Globemaster” instead. The C17 was going to make an aidrop to “AGAP” after it dropped us off in McMurdo. You can see that the air-drop cargo was all ready to go (there is a parachute on top of each piece of cargo).


The C-17 ready for Airdrop.

During the flight I saw a lot of pack ice, and also got a nice photograph of the Antarctic coastline. We landed at Willy field (a runway on the sea ice). It was a nice day and you could see Mount Erebus in the distance (an active volcano).


Pack ice from the air.

The Antarctic coastline.

The C-17 ‘Globemaster.’

After being debriefed and getting our room assignments I took the Terrabus over to Scott Base (the New Zealand station). From there I could see the pressure ridges, and also the Happy Camper (Antarctic survival training) folks in the distance.


Having landed at McMurdo Station with Mt. Erebus in the background.

Scott Base pressure ridges, Terrabus and Happy Camper at foot of Mt. Erebus.

I knew that Mary Miller and Lisa Strong from the Exploratorium were standing there next to the two Scott Tents. The Happy Camper school was taking place at the foot of Mount Erebus. In the photo above, you can see the Terrabus between the pressure ridges and the Happy Camper school.

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The Eve of Discovery http://icestories.exploratorium.edu/dispatches/the-eve-of-discovery/ http://icestories.exploratorium.edu/dispatches/the-eve-of-discovery/#comments Fri, 12 Dec 2008 18:08:05 +0000 Adrienne Block http://icestories.exploratorium.edu/dispatches/?p=1316 MCMURDO STATION, ANTARCTICA– It has been a rollercoaster week. This time last Friday, I would have been desperate to get my hands on some data. I was the kid that asks for homework. I was aimless and lost without it. Feeling like everyday you are just biding your time is harder when you know that time will soon become too precious. Now, I have spent the week slaving over the data I cravenly awaited. And I’m definitely not asking for anymore homework! In fact, I could use a Spring Break! Mostly I have been making little changes to the software so it can handle the volume of data we are bringing back from the flights. In about 40 seconds, our system collects 457.8MB of just radar data. That’s equivalent to almost 8 hours of music. Handling the data would be easy enough if our flights lasted 80 seconds…. But they are 2,4, even 6 hours long. Radar data comes in massive chunks!


Because being at high altitude can make some people sick, the science team has to be trained on multiple parts of the airplane’s science equipment.

During June this year, we tested our radar system in Greenland. We flew over the Greenland Ice Sheet, collecting data to image the ice down to 2.5 km (1.6 miles) below the lake-spotted surface. Now in Antarctica, we face the challenge of imaging more than 4 km of ice…. That’s 2.5 miles of frozen history between our science team and the Gamburtsev Mountains we came here to study! Because we have to reach further into the ice, we have more data than ever coming back after each flight. There’s so much data that the system chokes on it and gasps, “Help me, Adrienne. Help!”

I have escaped the office a few times this week. I got to go on a tour of the pressure ridges that form between the flowing ice of the Ross Ice Shelf and the rock that stands firm against it. And just last night, I escaped to Scott Base, the Antarctic Base that belongs to New Zealand, for some retail therapy. My Scott Excursion really took my mind off of the software for a while and had me refreshed and ready to go back to Radar World this morning. Not to mention I am well stocked on wooly base layers to fight the cold.


View of Scott Base from the Pressure Ridges.

An interesting formation in the Pressure Ridges. What do you think it looks like?

Today, I feel the same way I do when I am at the top of the big hill at the beginning of the ride. There’s that moment when you lift off your seat before powering down the steep hill, screaming your head off. I have been living there, in that emotional suspension for 3 days. Part of my jitteriness the last few days is undoubtedly rooted in the fact I’ll be going to the South Pole on Monday. According to our medical briefing, that means I’ll be perpetually short of breath, having trouble sleeping and going to the bathroom about every 20 minutes for 2 days…. The anticipation is almost too much to hold in! I have been to 10,000ft elevation before but that was after living at 6,500ft above sea level for 5 weeks… and that was in Utah. The transition from sea level here in McMurdo to 10,000ft is such a surprise to the system that everyone is prescribed a medication to help our bodies adjust to the lower oxygen levels. On top of that, we all have to fight off the adrenaline brought on by the fact we’re in Antarctica, at The South Pole, at 10,000ft—no offense to Utah, but it doesn’t compare! Just in case we don’t adjust to the elevation, everyone has been learning tasks outside their specialty. Hopefully, if someone gets sick, we’ll be able to keep the science moving forward, even if at a slower pace.

In the end, it’s not just where we’ll be a week from now. It’s what we’ll learn. The Gamburtsev Mountains have been enigmatic since their happenstance discovery in 1958. Soon, we’ll know them in a way only dreamt of until now. The people on this science team will learn more about the Mountains than the rest of the world has compiled in the last 50 years. This is the Eve of Discovery.

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Happy Camper School http://icestories.exploratorium.edu/dispatches/happy-camper-school/ http://icestories.exploratorium.edu/dispatches/happy-camper-school/#comments Thu, 30 Oct 2008 20:19:59 +0000 Howie Koss http://icestories.exploratorium.edu/dispatches/?p=866 October 17, 2008

MCMURDO STATION, ANTARCTICA– As the Delta drove away after dropping off our group for Happy Camper School, also known as “Snowcraft 1” and survival training, I had a distinct mix of adrenaline excitement and nervousness.


The Delta driving away after dropping our group off for Happy Camper School.

The day was cloudy and gray. The wind was up. And it was cold. But this was my first real Antarctic experience, the first time away from McMurdo Station. I was energized to learn survival skills to endure the frigid Antarctic night and help my group set up a camp on the Ross Ice Shelf.

We walked quite a long way to where we would start our training, each of us alone to our thoughts bundled against the wind. I was actually happy to leave the relative comfort of McMurdo Station. This was one of the things I was looking forward to most when I came down here, the opportunity to experience Antarctica.


Walking on the Ross Ice Shelf to Happy Camper School.

Castle Rock came into view, and again I was reminded of those who came before me. The early explorers didn’t have training on how to live in this harsh environment. They were the ones who, by trial and error, passed down the knowledge that we have benefited from today. They went out seeking to comprehend the world around them as we do now, but they wrote the lessons of survival that we now follow.


Castle Rock in the clouds.

I turned and looked behind me toward what was familiar and saw Mt. Discovery shrouded in clouds behind Scott Base, the New Zealand scientific research facility. I made the decision to actively be engaged in my training to absorb everything I could. There is a deep respect I have for the extreme weather which can and does occur in the Antarctic. In order to feel confident about my own ability to withstand the potential difficult moments, times that would require a clear mind and deliberate action if they teetered on the edge of life and death, I had to fully learn how to cope with my surroundings.


Mt. Discovery shrouded in clouds behind Scott Base.

One of the first lessons our instructors taught us was how to use and fix a WhisperLite stove. We would later use them to make water from melted snow and to heat the water for meals, hot drinks, and to fill a bottle to keep in our sleeping bags as we slept to keep warm throughout the night. These stoves are very well suited to be used in such a cold environment because they can be lit with almost any type of fuel.


Learning to use a WhisperLite stove.

A snow shelter we were taught to make was called a Quinzee. It’s different than an igloo because an igloo uses carefully placed blocks of snow in its construction. A quinzee is made by hollowing out compacted snow. We piled up all of our duffle bags that contained our sleep kits (sleeping bags, fleece liners, and ground mats) and shoveled about 1 foot of snow on top of it. This was packed down by smacking the backside of our shovels against it. We then let it sit for about an hour so the snow crystals would lock together to form a solid structure. A hole was dug into the side of it, and the bags were removed. And what was left was a hollow mound of snow that protected against the wind and elements. The inside was excavated to make a flat sleeping surface, and it was ready to use. I chose to sleep inside of this later in the night.


Constructing a Quinzee snow shelter.

Our sleep shelters were finally constructed and laid out. We had 2 orange Scott Tents, the Quinzee, and several blue and yellow Mountain tents. It’s very important how a camp be set up, and one of the most significant things is to determine where the dominant wind is coming from. This will likely be the direction from where the most severe weather would come. All of the entrances to the shelters were placed away from the wind.


Our camp with 2 Scott Tents, the Quinzee, and several blue and yellow Mountain tents.

The next thing our instructors taught us after our sleep structures were set up was how to excavate snow blocks. We would use these to construct walls around our camp to prevent the full force of the wind from getting to us. We put them around the Mountain tents and the area where we would be setting up the stoves to melt snow for drinking water.


Learning to mine snow blocks for a wind wall.

After all of our hard work, the clouds mostly cleared out and it became a beautiful evening. Our camp was set up. Everything was secure. We ate dinner and warmed up with hot drinks.


Mountain tents protected from the wind by the snow block wind wall.

I was really tired after being outside the whole day in the cold. I set up my sleeping bag in the Quinzee and got ready to spend my first night out on the Ice in Antarctica.


Sitting in front of the Quinzee ready to sleep.

With a full belly and a warm water bottle to help heat my sleeping bag, I turned and looked toward one of the last sunsets on the continent for the season. I was amazed. I had made it. I was now in Antarctica!


Mt. Discovery and Black Island at sunset.
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