Drilling at Site U1361
Position: 64º 24.6’S, 143º 53.2’E
Water Depth: 3470 meters
11 more days!

ABOARD THE JOIDES RESOLUTION, OFF THE COAST OF WILKES LAND, ANTARCTICA– Hi folks! We’ve been busy the past 9 days. We are coming to the end of our work window here in Antarctic. Summer has ended, the nights are much longer, and next Tuesday we must begin our transit back to Hobart, Australia.

We made our last attempt to get into one of our continental shelf drilling sites but were stopped once more by sea ice. All of the ice here is frozen seawater as opposed to glacial ice.

The sea ice is porous and inside the pores are salty brines that support plant and bacterial life. Here we are trying to collect so ice, but it’s a long way down to the water for this little bucket, especially when working from a moving ship.

We finished drilling deep into the seabed at Site U1359, encountering sediments and rocks that span much of the last 13 million years. For several hundred meters we found layers of rock that alternated between green and brown over distances of 2 to 4 meters. The green parts of the cycle showed evidence of intense mixing of the sediments by animals living at the seafloor while the brown parts showed something quite different – very well-developed laminations that could not have survived if the sediments were mixed. There were different materials in the layers too – some contain more shells of diatoms, the main plant in the surface waters of the ocean. We don’t yet know what these cycles of green and brown represent but we think they reflect the continued glacial-interglacial cycling of the Earth’s climate many millions of years ago.

Today we are in a very cold period in the long-term history of the Earth, and have been for most of the past several million years. Because the Earth is already quite cold, when we have glacial-interglacial cycles, we see large ice sheets coming and going at both poles – in Antarctica, Greenland, and over large parts of North America and Scandinavia. This waxing and waning of polar ice is driven by small changes in the shape of the Earth’s orbit around the sun (it changes from an ellipse to more circular and back again over about 120,000 years), the tilt of the Earth’s axis (it wobbles a bit over 40,000 years), and the exact seasonal timing of when the Earth is at its closest approach to the sun. All of these “orbital” changes impact how much sunlight reaches the Earth as well as when and where it warms the Earth seasonally. Sometimes, the Earth is in an orbital configuration that produces warm winters and cool summers – a combination that usually allows ice sheets to form and grow. Some 10’s of thousands of years later, the opposite occurs – warm summers and cool winters – which can cause ice sheets to rapidly melt. In today’s cold world, these small changes have big effects as the Polar Regions are cold enough to allow large ice sheets to form and last through the warmer periods. Antarctica has been covered in a large ice sheet for many millions of years because of this overall cooling. It still waxes and wanes along its margins but it is always present in the continent’s interior. But prior to about 2.5 million years ago, there was no permanent ice sheet in the north polar regions – it was simply too warm. Further back in time, the Antarctic ice sheet was much smaller than it is today but it was still dancing to the rhythms set by the Earth’s orbit.

What we were seeing at our last drill site and what we are looking for at our latest site is evidence of how these glacial-interglacial cycles affected the Southern Ocean and how they in turn may have been different because the planet was a little bit warmer than today. By studying this we can learn more about how small changes in the planet’s temperature can affect things like ice volume, sea ice extent, and the productivity of the ocean. This is directly relevant to understanding our Greenhouse future. Although all the climate variability that occurred millions of years ago was “natural” (in other words, not caused by people), the strength of the signal that caused these past changes (the orbital changes in this case) is not very different from the strength of the signal we expect from the man-induced increase in carbon dioxide levels in the atmosphere.

The poles are a great place to study both natural and man-induced changes in Earth’s climate because of a phenomenon called polar amplification. We know from many hundreds of studies of the past 50 million years of climate change that whenever the Earth warms up, the poles warm up more than the planet’s average. The converse is true for times of cooling. We don’t yet fully understand the reasons why but based on these studies of the past we shouldn’t be surprised that the poles are warming up very quickly today, at a rate greater than what we see in the tropics or the temperate belts. The cores we collect on this trip have the potential to tell us more about when and why polar amplification occurs.

I’ll send one more blog from this trip once we have cleared our last hole and are heading for Hobart. Sixty days is a long time to be as sea and working every day for 14 hours or more. We are all excited to get home.

I had a chance to get off the JOIDES Resolution a couple of days ago when we were running a “man overboard” drill. We recovered the dummy and then I was able to take these shots. It was our warmest, sunniest, calmest day by far. You’d never know we were in Antarctic waters.

We’ve been seeing lots of whales at our continental rise sites. The whales come to Antarctic waters in summer because of the abundance of food.

At dawn one day, we had more than 35 Humpback whales around the ship. From a distance you usually first see their spout, which you can make out here.

More storms and more icebergs. This seems to be the story around here now. Once each week we get a major blow and the seas kick up.

Then when we are near the continental shelf we see more icebergs…..

Transiting back to Site U1359
Position: 64º 34’S, 140º 30’E
Water Depth: 3700 meters
The scene outside: 2 days of storms and lots of icebergs

ABOARD THE JOIDES RESOLUTION, OFF THE COAST OF WILKES LAND, ANTARCTICA– Our latest drilling target is in an area where sediments that document the transition of Antarctica from the “Hothouse” to the “Icehouse” can be easily reached at shallow depth beneath the seafloor. We drilled for 18 hours and then had to pull the drill pipe up out of the hole and reposition the ship to avoid a large iceberg that was heading straight for us. When the iceberg had passed the weather started to deteriorate. Our forecast was for 60 kt winds and big seas so we headed north out of “iceberg city” to ride the storm out in deep water away from icebergs and sea ice. The forecast was true to its word – we had waves up to 30 feet and winds over 60 kts for more than 24 hours. But we had great iceberg viewing on the way to our WOW (Waiting On Weather) point so I’ll write something about them and how they fit in with our project.

The Antarctic ice sheet is always accumulating new snow that gradually turns to ice. For the ice sheet to remain the same size it must either melt or release ice to the ocean as icebergs. In parts of Antarctica some of the ice is in fact melting but most of the ice loss that maintains the continent at its present state occurs through the calving of icebergs. Most icebergs calve off of ice tongues and ice shelves – areas of concentrated ice flow at the coast. Imagine that the ice is draining off of the high parts of the continent by flowing down small ice drainages to form mighty rivers – but rivers of ice in this case. These vast rivers move slowly, only a few 10’s to 1000’s of meters each year. When they reach the coast, the ice flows out into the ocean where it begins to float wherever the water is deep enough. In some cases, this is where the water is over 500 meters deep and the ice is over 560 meters thick. Floating ice shelves or ice tongues are influenced by winds and ocean currents. They begin to melt if the water is warm enough but they mostly breakup to form icebergs.

Many of the icebergs here off Wilkes Land came from the Ross Ice Shelf – the world’s largest ice shelf. It is over 1500 km away in the Ross Sea but icebergs travel great distances in the Southern Ocean. The water is cold and they drift with the ocean currents, for decades in some cases. As they drift, they melt a bit below the waterline and become rounded. Sometimes they flip over and this rounded part is then visible. Icebergs often collide and gouge away at each other or they list over at an angle and slowly fall apart. This means that icebergs come in all shapes, sizes, and textures.

The biggest iceberg we’ve seen was over 20 km long.

Icebergs come in all colors, from the pure white of fresh snow to the deepest blue of pure crystalline ice from far below the surface of the ice sheet.

Icebergs come in all shapes, sizes, and textures.

A penguin on a growler (a small iceberg).

The ice at the base of the ice sheet often carries sediments: boulders, gravels, cobbles, and sands. When these parts break off and begin to float they form “dirty” bergs with dark rocky layers intermixed with the clear blue ice. The debris that falls from these dirty bergs accumulates in sediments at the seabed. When we see gravels or sands in otherwise fine-grained sediments, we know this debris was transported out over the ocean by ice. In fact, the presence or absence of ice-rafted debris is something we keep close track of in the cores we are collecting on this trip – this tells us whether Antarctica was generating lots of icebergs and therefore had at least some kind of ice sheet in the past. Conversely, when we see sediments that do not contain this debris we know we are looking at a record from a time when Antarctica was much warmer.

In the foreground, a dirty iceberg.

We’ve seen over 400 icebergs in the past 2 days.

As I write, the storm has abated and we are transiting back to our drill site.

Dawn at 4:30.

A few of our several iceberg choices in Bay of Sails.

Icebergs are moved by wind and currents, and when they come in contact with the seafloor, plough across it leaving a swath of destruction. Cape Evans, on the eastern side of McMurdo Sound, is bathed by plankton-rich water from the open Ross Sea, providing a good food resource to benthic communities during the summer months. But at Bay of Sails, on the western side of the sound, the water has spent a long time circulating in darkness under the thick ice of the permanent Ross Ice Shelf, so it is very oligotrophic, or food-poor. I am interested in the differences between how these two communities recover from iceberg disturbances.

Though the benthic communities locally are not eating well, we are!

To start this effort, we did a reconnaissance helicopter flight. Scottie, our pilot for the day, flew us in beautiful loops and spirals over the dozen icebergs scattered in the bay. We were looking for a berg that was grounded on the seafloor, was in about 50 m water depth, and was close enough to other icebergs that we had alternate target options. Since the bathymetry in this area is poorly known, I had to guess at depths based on distance from shore and iceberg height. I selected a moderate-size, tabular-looking berg about 2 km from shore. It was a good choice, but a better one was about a km further offshore, as we discovered from our initial survey with an extremely high tech weight on a tape measure.

Marco and Henry think a better iceberg is that way.

However, the helo landing site is that way.

Okay, I guess we’ll go home for now.

Parallel with selecting the camp location, we have been packing up camp gear. 335 pounds of food, 330 pounds of water, sleeping bags good to minus 40, tents, fuel for the stove and heaters, sleds, safety supplies, another 1485 pounds of stuff. And then there is the science equipment – drills, electronic gear, the ROV itself, power supplies, batteries and generators, all in all 760 pounds of toys. Then there is the 1000 pounds of people. Not to say we are fat, but several of us are up to three desserts per night. Yow!

How much stuff will fit in one helicopter? 1200 lbs in an A-Star, and 2000 lbs in a Bell212.

All of this is sorted into classifications of Can Freeze, Do Not Freeze, and Keep Frozen (some of the food). Bags and boxes are weighed and tagged. Hazardous material is certified as safe to fly. Much of the Can Freeze camp gear has gone already in an overland (well, over-sea-ice) traverse to a fueling depot about 10 km from Bay of Sails. The helicopters will carry it the rest of the way to us.

Like an n-dimensional puzzle, it all unfolds to a full field camp, dwarfed by the landscape.

My bedroom.

It’s a little nerve-wracking, making sure we remember everything, and enough of it. I have lists, and lists of lists, and I wake up in the middle of the night to make more lists. Remembering to bring all the things we needed to Antarctica was bad enough, but the field camp list must be pared to a minimum yet not leave out anything. We will get a resupply flight after a week, to bring us more water, so we do have that opportunity to fix any bads, but it would be very unproductive, not to say embarrassing, to have forgotten the batteries to the joystick to drive the ROV.

Team SCINI at field camp I: Kamille, Dustin, Isabelle, Francois, Stacy and Bob. Doh, Dustin has forgotten his black Antarctic uniform pants!

Tonight as the sun dips to touch the horizon I think that we have all we need to survive. But I am worried about the engineers getting their stuff packed; they are still out doing tests at 10 pm, 12 hours from when it must be on the helo pad. I am beginning to think that procrastination and engineering must go hand in hand. I think a walk up Ob Hill is in order to reduce my stress!

The view of Erebus and Terror from the top of Ob Hill, colored by a midnight sun.

PUNTA ARENAS, CHILE– Late last night we arrived at Punta Arenas, Chile. This marks the end of our Iceberg 3 cruise. We have finished analyzing the samples, re-calibrating instruments and we are now ready to start packing. We leave in 4 days; in the interim we will do an inventory of supplies, clean instruments, enter data and pack to be ready to leave on the 19th. Some of us are going back home, others will travel for a few days in the South of Chile or as far north as Ecuador.

Earlier today we met to share our findings during the cruise and plan data analysis and publication of results. Each of us gave a 5 minute (sometimes extending to 15 minute) presentation. It was impressive to see how much we had learned. We have now data that shows the changes in physics, chemistry and biology in the wake of an iceberg, we have improved the comparison of areas affected and not affected by the presence of an iceberg and we can tell how different the iceberg imprint in surface waters is at different times of the year in the North West Weddell Sea (summer, fall and winter). We have accomplished our goal of testing the release of iron to surface waters and the response of phytoplankton and bacteria. This was done not only by measurements in the ocean at different distances from icebergs but also through experiments with iron additions.

These photos show some of the wide variety of icebergs we saw in the northwest Weddell Sea. Notice the blue ice in this iceberg.

The black stripes in this “dirty” iceberg are caused by sediments trapped in the ice.

It was decided we will meet next month in Monterey, California. At that time we expect to have a more in-depth analysis of data that will allow us to synthesize findings in a more comprehensive way. Science carried out in interdisciplinary groups is based not only on results from the individual researchers but also on how well we can combine our findings to describe the iceberg system.

Until the next one!

ABOARD THE RVIB N. B. PALMER, ON THE SOUTHERN OCEAN– We are experimenting with iron additions to phytoplankton populations to see possible effects of icebergs as a source of iron. Measuring iron and phytoplankton in the ocean is not sufficient to determine cause and effect. With that purpose, we grow cells under blue light in a freezer van maintained at zero degree Centigrade. We mimic day length (12-hours light) and water temperature (varying from -1 to +0.5 degrees Centigrade). We add iron to some bottles and others are kept without addition, as controls. The cultures are studied for several days, in our case for 2 weeks. This is enough time to determine if iron influences higher growth rate and if final cell concentrations are different among treatments.

Incubations under controlled conditions to study effect of iron addition to phytoplankton.

We are lucky that the phytoplankton growing in our cultures are the same species found most abundant in surface waters. This ensures our results are representative of what occurs in Nature and any manipulation in our experimental design is similar to what the melting of icebergs can introduce to the ocean. Fragilariopsis sp. and Corethron criophilum are the dominant diatoms. They belong to nano- (2-20 micros) and microplankton (>20 microns) respectively. Anything smaller (picoplankton or cells < 2 microns) cannot be analyzed on board and will be studied once at home.

Corethron criophilum in the cultures.

ABOARD THE RVIB N. B. PALMER, ON THE SOUTHERN OCEAN– Not only do we want to know about what type of phytoplankton grow close to icebergs but we also want to know how well they grow. Primary production, or the rate of inorganic carbon taken up by cells is one of the methods used on this cruise to determine productivity. Diane Chakos takes the water collected by the Niskin bottles in CTD rosette (see previous dispatch) and incubates them for 24 hours under sunlight to estimate daily organic carbon production.

Diane Chakos in the lab preparing samples for a 24-hour incubation under sunlight.

Based on underwater light levels we sample water from surface and at depth corresponding to 50%, 25%, 10%, 5% and 1% of surface light. Within the layer defined by 100% and 1% surface light most of the primary production occurs. Biomass, light intensity and abundance of nutrients, including inorganic carbon, all contribute to production. During austral fall in Antarctic waters we are experiencing only 12-h day light, plenty of nutrients and phytoplankton biomass equivalent to 0.5 milligrams per cubic meter results in about 5-10 milligrams carbon produced per cubic meter per day.

Karie Sines filtering cultures to estimate phytoplankton abundance in productivity experiments by chlorophyll concentration.

ABOARD THE RVIB N. B. PALMER, ON THE SOUTHERN OCEAN– Within 40 nautical miles southeast of C18A iceberg, we found an area known as the Iceberg Alley: a large concentration of icebergs in western Weddell Sea, moving in a north-northeast direction following the clockwise circulation around the Weddell Sea gyre. Hundreds of icebergs, medium and small, bergy bits and growlers can be seen all the way to the horizon. Our question is: Are phytoplankton here similar to what we found close to the large icebergs? Can we see similar iceberg effect?

An iceberg in the Iceberg Alley.

More icebergs in the Iceberg Alley.

A striped iceberg in the Iceberg Alley.

The number and variety of icebergs is incredible. We sample from surface to 500m with a CTD rosette (Conductivity-Temperature-Depth sensors mounted on a stainless steel frame with twenty-four 8-liter bottles). Phytoplankton concentrate on the surface, where there is plenty of light. Our sampling is designed to see plant abundance and composition and to capture any vertical structure in relation to the chemical and physical properties of surface ocean waters.

CTD rosette: Conductivity-Temperature-Depth sensors mounted on a stainless steel frame with twenty-four 8-liter bottles.

If icebergs change the physical and chemical structure, we expect phytoplankton to show parallel changes. With the release of the micronutrient iron from the ice, do phytoplankton change their concentration? Do we find more large cells, as expected from relief of iron limitation? Or is the mixing of the upper 200 meters pronounced and we see less stratification in the Iceberg Alley when compared to non-iceberg impacted waters? Analysis of cell number, microscopic determination of species and nutrient concentration at different depth will give us answers to these questions? Unfortunately we need to wait until we are back in our home institutions before analysis. The ship motion precludes any detailed analysis under the microscope.

The ARIB Nathaniel B. Palmer’s shadow seen on an iceberg during a clear evening at the Iceberg Alley.

ABOARD THE RVIB N. B. PALMER, ON THE SOUTHERN OCEAN– After a four day trek looking for other icebergs we might want to study, we came back to continue studying iceberg C18A. Iceberg diversity and how it affects surrounding ecosystem is one of our goals. If the icebergs are delivering nutrients, one of our main hypotheses, we expect to see big changes when the iceberg is traveling in nutrient poor waters. The trick turned out to be how to find these nutrient-poor waters in the Weddell Sea. Looking at published nutrient values it seemed that the central Weddell Sea, far from the coast, could be a good possibility. From satellite pictures we speculated that B15L, an iceberg from the Ross Ice Shelf, could be in such waters.

As we arrived at 65º 28.362’ S, 40º 56.856’ W, B15L was surrounded by the biggest phytoplankton bloom we have seen on this cruise. Instead of half a milligram of chlorophyll a per liter we encountered ten! These waters did not seem poor in nutrients at all. The iceberg was large, tabular and somewhat more square than C18A but of similar size and characteristics. It would have been perfect for our studies. After taking a first look at the iceberg, many pictures, samples for phytoplankton and nutrients, we decided these conditions were not conducive to answering our questions. The ice edge was less than 100 nautical miles to the south; B15L was trapped in what is known an ice-edge bloom, one of the best studied high productive areas in high latitude oceans.

B15L as seen close to the ice edge in the central Weddell Sea. This iceberg has traveled from the Ross Ice Shelf half a continent away.

The ice edge bloom was dominated by diatoms. A high diversity showed many new species not sampled so far. Several Chaetoceros spp. were very characteristic: chain-forming species with interlocking spines.

Dominant diatoms at the ice-edge bloom close to B15L: Chaetoceros spp.

How best to continue our studies? Keep looking for a new iceberg in the middle of the Weddell Sea or go back to where satellite images show icebergs abound, the Iceberg Alley? We decided for the latter. In another 24 hours we were back to the western Weddell Sea. We decided to study C18A for a few more days; there were many unanswered questions still. So we are glad to have a second opportunity. A few things are different this time around. C18A had kept moving towards the NE and its position is now more along an East-West axis than a North-South one. We will be here for the next 3 days and sampling has already started.