Dirt and liquid water, unusual problems in Antarctica.

As is becoming the norm for us, camp put in did not go smoothly. High winds meant that only our high priority cargo got to us but the rest was delayed for a few days until the winds dropped enough for the helicopters to fly with external loads. So for the first few nights, we all slept in one tent. It was a large tent, so we were pretty comfortable. But I had forgotten to include cooking pots in the high priority cargo, so we had nothing to boil water in until we broke open the survival bags. We felt a little silly opening the survival bags just for pans, but making hot meals was much better than eating yet another bag of gorp.

Maybe if the rest of our tents don’t ever get here we could sleep in an ice cave?

Becker camp. The big multicolored tent was all we had for the first few days.

Of course, the high priority cargo did include enough of our science gear that we could work, so despite the winds we started ROV missions immediately. The ice in the crack, which we had hoped would provide easier access to the ocean, was very hard and not as thin as we might have wished. Drilling took hours every day, and lots of muscle. Combined with the hard ice were pockets of thin crust, which led to wet feet for everyone on the team at one time or another. But, the crack did provide a smooth, and nearly continuous, pathway for hauling our gear.

Everything we need to operate SCINI fits in two sledges.

And those two sledges can be hauled by the support team of 5 people.

After finding such unexpectedly rich communities at Heald Island last year, I was not sure what to expect at this site. Even with that, I was surprised – this time, at how little life there was. Anemones were the dominant taxa, with a smattering of brittle stars, sponges, and these mysterious white sprinkles that, at a diameter of 1 mm, we could not resolve the finer details of. We profiled extensively from 130 to 30 m, where the seafloor contacted the shore ice. At 40 m, there was a thick benthic diatom layer, but nobody consuming the plethora of productivity. And oddly enough, the ice was no thicker than 11 m even off the crack, much thinner than an Ice Shelf should be.

Isabelle on the right and Bob on the left give a sense of scale to the McMurdo Ice Shelf. Heald Island is behind Bob on the left.

So, as is also becoming usual for us, our field time led to more questions than answers. Why is the ice shelf ice so thin here? With the thin ice and consequent high light levels, why are there so few grazers utilizing the high productivity? Are the sprinkles biological, geological or chemical in origin? And finally, what caused the salt outcroppings we found on the slopes near our camp?

Isabelle next to a mysterious salt outcropping. We later read that these are mirabilite chunks that have been pushed around by glacier action.

We were very happy that camp pull out was more efficient than put in, allowing us to return to McMurdo in time for Thanksgiving dinner on Saturday night. Though we did have one triwall slingload self-destruct on the return, nothing was lost. And turkey day dinner was a decadent extravaganza of crab legs and chocolate truffles, in addition to the ALL the traditional Thanksgiving fare. We are so spoiled here. Perhaps the contrast to cold gorp dinners enhanced our appreciation, and the presence of good friends certainly added to our pleasure, but I think the meal was a gourmet a treat as any I have ever had. We owe so much to the wonderful folks here who keep us going in so many ways. I hope that you recognize as much to be thankful for in your lives as we do on the frozen continent.

Packing up the triwall prior to it self-destructing on the flight home. We did let Isabelle out before we sealed it.

The helo ready to take the last of our camp gear. Fortunately this time the last flight (for us people) went off as planned.

Farewell to Becker Point.

The galley staff once again put out a great spread for Christmas dinner in which beef Wellington and lobster tails were the main course. Dessert included raspberry rhubarb pie and cheesecake which were both delicious. The celebration lasted late into the night with music and dancing in the galley.

For those that didn’t have too much fun the night before was the Race Around the World. I have to admit, I was feeling it a bit the next day but I was able to hop out of bed and make the 10am starting time. The race doesn’t necessarily need to be run. Some people walked, some skied, and some rode snowmobiles. In fact some rode a giant chariot, a hot tub, a stationary exercise bike (being pulled by a snowmobile), and a smoke breathing dragon! Some of the folks really out did themselves with the construction of these things. I found it pretty hilarious.

The giant chariot made by the IceCube folks.

Stationary exercise bike being towed by snowmobile.

Smoke breathing dragon and hot tub.

I ended up jogging the race and completed the two and a half mile track around the world. It was a ton of fun and I’m glad I pressed through and finished it. I haven’t been doing any jogging lately so being at a physiological altitude of 10,500 ft, and running on a uneven packed snow surface, let’s just say I was happy that I was able to finish. I’ve ran in some cold weather back in Wisconsin but this was another level. I think race time temperature was -18F which was probably 30 degrees colder than any day I ran back home. My lungs were definitely a little on fire after the race.

Hilary Smith the recreation coordinator at the start of the race.

My frosty face at the end of the race.

The winning runners were Curtis Moore who posted a blazing 17:17:43 for the men, and Emily Thiem at 20:48:33. Good on them!

The later part of the week brought us 2010. New Year’s Eve fell on Thursday night and unfortunately the station didn’t have off work on the actual New Year’s Day so the big party was on Saturday night. Three bands had been working hard practicing together for their New Year’s bash performance. The gym was all decorated and there was even a little “patio” made up that was quite cozy. I was very impressed with the bands. They really did a great job and it looked like they had a lot of fun performing. First up was a bluegrass band, then the Violent “Flemmes” doing Violent Femmes covers, and lastly was just a good ol’ rock band. People really know how to create some fun environments down here that’s for sure.

First up: Bluegrass!

There were probably five other people playing not in the picture.

The “Patio” and party decorations.

Eli, the lead singer of the Violent “Flemmes.”

Ethan has sort of an Elvis voice.

And finally, of interesting note, there was a BBC film crew over the last few days. They are busy creating their next series “Frozen Planet”. It is going to be similar to the Planet Earth series but with a focus on the Polar regions. Apparently the last episode is going to be about “People at the Poles”. I’ve heard that the South Pole only gets a four or five minute segment in the episode but I’m excited for it to come out. Especially since they filmed me launching and ozonesonde and collecting some air samples! I’m pretty sure they will use some of the footage. They seemed pretty happy with it.

That should about catch you up with what has gone on over the last couple weeks. Things look to be pretty busy for the month of January. I do get to go to Christchurch for a week of R&R on Jan 18th which I’m looking forward to. With that coming up, it will be winter before I know it!

Photos Courtesy of Reinhart Piuk

This is a hard time of year to be away from family and friends but our WAIS community is certainly like a second family. We will have a gift exchange and lots of mail has been pouring over the past few days so there will be some presents from home to open too!

We are singing carols and getting into the holiday spirit with a few decorations and our special wooden Christmas tree outside of our galley. Will there be presents under the tree? I hope that Santa can find his way to the South Pole!

Happy Holidays to you all! We are all sending many well wishes from chilly Antarctica!

The Christmas tree at WAIS Divide.